Kafni Glacier : A trek to meet Himalayas in Uttarakhand (Part II)

The sun was standing at the doorstep of night, green trees in the jungle had already transformed into black beauty of the valley, the dense forest became more silent now, at the corner of a dark cave a kettle was kept on fire with water boiling inside for tea, one man with whitish black or blackish white beared was sharing his words of wisdom with trekkers ... no no it's not a scene from the Hollywood movie... 😁 This is the scenario where I left my story of Kafni trek in the previous blog.
A heart warming interaction with Pindari wale baba. (Remember?)

The sun was about to say goodbye by the time we reached Dwali... A 19 km trek for the day finally met it's destination.We could see the bright shining Nanda Devi peak from KMVN rest house. Glittering snow of the peak had nothing to do with the gloomy sky. It's sparkle replaced the need of move spray for our leg and shoulder muscles, which were still in shock post giving the endurance test after a long time.

Nanda Devi East view from KMVN Guest House Dwali

Day 3 - Dwali to Kafni Glacier

It was a peaceful night, had a sound sleep.Next day morning as we were supposed to do a back and forth trek to Kafni glacier, which was a 28 km long route estimated with an approximate altitude gain of 4000ft.

For, such a long distance it was our strategy to commence the march before the dawn this time.(This was how we cheated the distance and height at the same time).
With a glucose rich breakfast and carbohydrate rich lunch packs inside our bag packs, we all strated the trek early morning .The head torches were our Pathfinder in this journey. Slow and steady we all were climbing to meet our self proclaimed host - Kafni.

Our first stop today was Khatiya (@10k ft) after 7 km of climbing from Dwali. (still thinking why the name was kept Khatiya, bed in English... 🤔) We were almost half way to the Zero point now. Still had 8 kms to cover.

Khatiya (10,000ft)

The trail was tough at places, we also did a little bit bouldering in order to proceed. But, it was fun.
Though, each km was not at all easy to climb as, with increasing altitude the breath was going down. I had already finished my water, so as my companions. The distance seem to get doubled.

After climbing about five kms from Khatiya, which i felt like climbing 10. Bcoz, I could see a small part of the glacier right infront of my eyes. So, I was happy inside with the thought that perhaps I have reached there. But, the worst hit ever I got while found a milestone pillar with Kafni 3 kms written on it.

Giving up is not an option... Anyway... 

Don't know about Zero point but That was the breaking point for me at that moment...
No water, paining muscles, lowering breath and keep all this aside, the thundering pressure that if I won't reach there by 12:30, everybody will start descending as per the plan of our instructor and I will have to return without meeting the glacier even after entering so close in it's vicinity. Its like visiting our home but not meeting the parents.

The thought itself was making me upset. And then only Rakesh sir (a fellow trekker) asked me - Have  you ever visited a glacier before?
I said No, as it was my first ever glacier trek.
He said (laughingly)- fir to dekhna banta hai ( then you must visit)...
His words were like adding fuel to the fire...
I thought if I can cover so many miles to be here, I can definitely cover the rest 3 km too.

I literally gulped a bit of snow. And can't explain you the taste of it (I've nvr tasted anything so delicious in my life before). So, I gathered all my will cz energy had already reached to point zero. 😁 And i found the last Three kms were the most amazing trail I covered during this trek. 

The  sheet of glittering snow was spread all around me, (A white carpet welcome by Kafni glacier) With boots all dipped into snow, the level went up to knees as we were moving closer to the glacier. The trail became much narrowed and risky. But, finally I reach there... and met him. The mighty kafni glacier... he must be smiling at me... but, guess what I told him as I reached there-  Oye! look Kya dera hai?😎 I am here now... 

Kafni Zero Point

I just cannot explain you the feeling guys... it was like being into a completely different world...

Though, we could not stay there for long but, those 15 min were completely worth covering a thousand miles.
You will see in the video how dumbstruck I went after reaching this place.Honestly telling It's involantry with me or any die heart nature lover... As the saying goes Beauty makes you go dumb, it's a fact. I experience the same whenever I meet nature to it's extreme.

                          Trek to Kafni Glacier in 3 min

 jiska mujhe Tha intzar... jiske like tha dil bekaraar wo ghadi aa gai...
(The moment for which I waited so long finally it arrived and passed like a blow of the wind...)
So, was this all??
No ways....

when you are into the lap of mother nature herself, surprises have a never ending series of nuclear fission to blow your mind... And vanish everything but the smile on your face and peace in your heart.

we were back to Dwali by the evening and got to know that we won't be going home directly. A mini Switzerland was all set for
our camping to make this trip even more memorable...

Day 4- Dwali to Kharkia to Dhakuri

we were honestly horrified with the thought of doing a 3 km straight way climbing after a 19 km trek in one go while returning. How does one feel after the show is over and it's time to pack up the mess? Well! with aching body & exhausted mind we were also feeling the same...

While trekking back to Kharkia I realised... Once you have taken a path, next time you find it comparatively shorter. Puran Sir, Alok Sir, Danu Sir, Ekta & I, we all were measuring the distance together... And my dear selfie queen added one more skill to the talent list of sir's. They were now an equally good photographer in addition to a trekking guide.

We reached kharkia by the evening and after a 10 min halt there moved to Dhakuri. Another heaven in pindari valley.

Dhakuri Camp site from height

For your knowledge, Dhakuri is a very famous tourist destination and an amazing place for camping. Bourn fire, stories, songs, music, good food and company of  friends... a perfect evening and perfect place to celebrate life...

A perfect evening at Dhakuri

Day 5 - Hike to Chiltamai Peak (A hidden treasure of Pindari Valley)

Next day, again a hidden treasure was there to surprise us... Because we are in a habit to conquer the peaks so, sitting midway at Dhakuri was not our cup of tea. We did a small 10 km hike to Chiltamai temple situated at Dhakuri peak. It was a unique & auspicious experience... we could actually feel the abode of God there... Extreme nature gave us one more reason to feel blessed being an eye witness of it's purity and majesty. The images say it all...

Chiltamai Temple

An ocean of Mountains... Heard before?

Happy moments with buddy

Lost in the nature at Dhakuri peak

Day 6 - Kharkia to Almora

Next day we came down to kharkia, where Marshalls were waiting for us to drop till Bharadi. From there, buses dropped us back to Almora. This is how one more fabulous trip came to an end.

 You know, what I feel & think after each trip of mine... this life is too short and there is Soo much to explore... One life is not enough... seriously... but I want to cover as much as I can... I want to wander till my last breath... I want to see nature in it's every form...

From the deserted mountains to the snow capped glaciers ... let's see what is next !!

Join me in my travel journey ... Mail me direct if you want to be a part of my next story... 
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Thanks for sharing your precious time with me... 

See you soon with another story... 🙂

Kafni glacier : A trek to meet Himalayas in Uttarakhand

“Those who travel to the mountain-tops are half in love with themselves, and half in love with oblivion.”                                                                              – Robert Macfarlane
The observation goes correct in the case of every mountain lover. If you ask me; I would rather say, mountains have a magic to make people fall in love with them and forget rest of the world by completely losing their soul into the pleasing company of mighty mountains.

Being a traveloholic and a mountain lover what else could be a better way to bid adieu to the passing year 2017 than kissing the first ray of the sun amid lush green mountains and embracing the love of Mother Nature on to an extreme mountain top?

Just an idea was needed and the group was already there, as if waiting for me :D Do you remember the conspiracies of universe … that I was talking about in my previous blog? An adventure group that I joined during my college days was going on a trek to Kafni Glacier. I called the instructors and book my seat.

So, I was all set for a thrilling experience of minus 12 degrees in chilling winters into Himalayas. Trek to Kafni Glacier was on now. I was eagerly waiting for Dec19th to arrive…

Before we move ahead with the story, it is important to make you familiar with the places and faces. So, here is a small detail about the trip –

Travelers:

RJ (that’s me)
  
Chetan Pandey (Chief Instructor)

Ekta Pant

Mr. Dayal Singh Danu

Mr. Puran Khati

Other team members (Including instructors and fellow trekkers)

Destination : Almora –– Kafni glacier
 (Stoppages: Bharadi – Kharkia – Dwali – Dhakuri)

As I believe that every story has a pre or post story. Here, this time also I have a pre story to share with you (I wish to have a post story too… as it was in YJHD;P) he he he… Jokes-apart. So, the story is –

Every good thing comes at a cost. This time, it was my job. I quit my job as an editor with a private firm two weeks prior and came home for the trek. Don’t worry! I will be joining a better place now. Never forget the lesson life teaches you. We were taught in NCC and in Physics and chemistry labs too – Always take calculated risks. So, did I … ;)

Suggestion – Take calculated risks and enjoy life… Keep it simple with zero regrets.

Now,  coming back on the trek.

On 18th afternoon I reached home. Bag was already packed with essentials to carry on the trek. Took shower and after having a proper meal I went on a sleepy dive. The comfort of home sweet home and mom’s cooked meal was one of the best gifts of this trip to me.

Delhi to Almora Distance by road – 375Km via NH-9, Time taken – 10+2 hrs (Additional two hours due to fog and traffic Jam)
Train is available till Kathgodam from where; you can take private/public transport. Fare is quite pocket-friendly within 125 – 300 Rs. per person(as if now) from Kathgodam to Almora, varying b/w buses and regular taxies.

Suggestion – 
1.Try and reach a day prior to the departure.
2.Prepare a list of items to carry in the trek, don’t carry unnecessary goods. 3.Crosscheck the backpack twice. See the video below for guidance.
4.Have a good nutritious meal.
Take proper sleep before night (its must).

         Essentials to carry for a winter trek

Day 1 – Almora to Kharkia
(19/12/17)

Kharkia is the road head, which is 48 km from National highway 37 (Bharari). This was our destination for day1 of the trek. We left Almora at morning 7 and reached Bharari via Takula-Bageshwar

Crispy Aloo paratha

by 1 o’clock in the afternoon. During this journey, we took a halt in Takula for morning breakfast.

Hot & crispy aloo paratha with pahadi special adrakh wali chai (Ginger Tea) made our morning & filled my friend Ekta and me with double energy to keep our stalk of talks going.

However, this route is a silent less populated road with full of Himalayan views.  Right from Binser valley in Almora as you pass through the beautiful Kasar region to the Pindari valley in Bageshwar, the mesmerizing nature won’t let you bore for a single second. So, even if you prefer to keep mum during travel, you can equally enjoy this journey.

After having lunch in Bharari we booked private marshals to reach Kharkia. As it was an unmetalled road, only small vehicles were permitted on it. The marshals dropped us at Kharkia our first checkpoint in three hours from Bharari.

Kharkia

The path was full of bouncy rides but the enthusiasm inside was at pinnacle and the beautiful nature around was cleverly diverging our attention from it. Our stay here was supposed to be at KMVN resort but, due to some reasons we had to take home stay with the local people. I found it quite interesting as it was giving me the complete feel of being a mountaingirl.

Delhi to Kharkia Travel Video

Suggestions:
1.There is no electricity in hinterlands, so better you carry additional power source with you.
2.Forget where you come from, gel with people, you will enjoy their true hospitality (if lucky, you may even get a proposal to become their son/daughter in law :D )
3.Bharari is the last point where you can access ATM and other food and utility stores. The same applies on mobile signals for all other service providers than BSNL.

Day 2: Kharkia to Dwali Village –

(20/12/17)

It’s a 19 Km trek from Kharkia to Dwali. Terrain was quite rough and rocky at places after Khati. Khati (5 km from Kharkia) is the last village in the valley having mass settlement. This is the point where your cell phone with BSNL sim may ring. There is a one in all shop in Khati village, where you can purchase basic utility items in emergency condition. You can have Maggie, Omlate, chocolates, and other edibles or even you can buy Shoe or sleepers etc from this shop. My friend who thought the trek to be a cakewalk bought a pair of sky blue shoe from here. Yeah! They saved her to some extent (better not to depend on these).

Beautiful Khati Village

There is also a temple in Khati Village and a water source in its premises. Fill your water bottle as it would be a 14 km trek to Dwali from here. You will pass through dense forest of Pindari valley.

With us, the route was open for the first time after the natural calamity held in 2012. So, we had to put some extra efforts at places to find the route. Thankfully we had instructors and a local guide Mr. Dayal S. Danu with us.

On the way to Dwali

Though the route was bit difficult but, it has as nothing to do with the intensity of nature to make you fall in love with it's beauty. The craggy trails did not seem much harsh as the view around was stealing our eyes and attention. The mild golden sunshine was giving us warmth by penetrating the sky touching deodar trees. A number of water springs were there on the way to slake our thirst and please the eyes.

Kharkia to Dwali trekking Video

We reached Dwali by 4:00 PM enjoying the trek and covering the up-down terrain with wooden bridges over fires Kafni River. We gained approx 1500feet height by the end of the day. Our stay was in KMVN guest houses there. The only guest house (other than PWD) offering its services to travelers in such challenging circumstances.

Oh! How can I forget to tell you about a wonderful personality I met on the way today...  Swami Dharmanand. Don’t worry! He is not like other self proclaimed Saints. He is a treasure of knowledge and innovative ideas. I had an interview kind of session with him for more than one hour inside his cave, where he offered us Tea and Parley-G biscuits. He had so much of knowledge and experience to share, it made me curious and the journalist inside overshadowed the trekker for sometime. I was keen to know more and more about him and his work. He claimed to have been working for rural development of nearby villages and also with IITs and other prestigious institutions of the country. He told me about the projects and ideas he drafted while answering one of my questions. I was literally aghast and pleased at the same time to meet him. Say it loud,
Pindari wale Baba ki… Jai ho!!

Once more… “Pindari wale Baba ki… Jai ho!!” :D 
DO MEET HIM IF YOU ARE IN PINDARI VALLEY.

Pindari wale baba ji (left to me)

           

Next day was highly important as we had to complete a 28 km trek back and forth to the Kafni Glacier. (Super excited to reach Zero Point). As we gain approximate 4000 feet height during this trek, for this, you need to cheat your mind a little bit. I will expose this trick in the second part of the story and will also take you to the Mini Switzerland and a hidden treasure in the lap of Himalayas in Pinder valley.  

Stay there... 

PART TWO .............. COMING SOON.
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